Dawa Yangzum Sherpa Biography: Nepal's First Female IFMGA Guide and Her Historic Ascent of 14 Peaks

Dawa Yangzum Sherpa is a Nepali mountaineer and internationally certified mountain guide. In 2017, she became the first woman from Nepal and Asia to qualify as a mountain guide under the standards of the International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations (IFMGA). On October 9, 2024, she became the first Nepali woman to climb all 14 mountains above 8,000 metres after reaching the summit of Shishapangma in Tibet, China.

Born in the Rolwaling Valley of Dolakha district, Dawa Yangzum began her professional career as a trekking guide. She first reached the summit of Mount Everest on May 25, 2012. On July 26, 2014, she climbed K2 alongside Maya Sherpa and Pasang Lhamu Sherpa Akita. They were members of the first Nepali women's team to summit K2.

She subsequently climbed several major Himalayan peaks, including Makalu, Annapurna I, Lhotse, Manaslu and Dhaulagiri I. Alongside her international mountain-guiding career, she has been involved in providing technical mountaineering training to Nepali women and girls.

Dawa Yangzum Sherpa: Quick Facts

Her birth year is recorded as 1990 in the mountaineering records maintained by the Himalayan Database.

Early Life, Family Background and Childhood

Dawa Yangzum Sherpa was born in Na village in the Rolwaling Valley, within the Gaurishankar region of Dolakha district. She spent her childhood in a high-altitude environment, surrounded by the traditional lifestyle of the Sherpa community.

Na and Beding are mountain settlements in the Rolwaling Valley. Agriculture, livestock farming, trekking and mountaineering-related activities play important roles in local livelihoods.

According to the Nepal National Mountain Guide Association (NNMGA) and The North Face, basic facilities such as electricity and running water were unavailable in her village when she was growing up. She spent her childhood in a geographically remote and challenging mountain environment.

At approximately 13 years of age, she left her village. In 2003, while travelling towards Kathmandu, she joined a trekking group crossing Tashi Lapcha Pass, which connects the Rolwaling and Khumbu regions.

During the journey, she worked as a porter, carrying supplies. The income she earned from trekking helped her reach Kathmandu.

After arriving in Kathmandu, she stayed with relatives and began looking for new opportunities. The opportunities she subsequently found in tourism drew her towards mountain guiding.

Early Education and Interest in Mountaineering

Complete details of Dawa Yangzum's formal schooling are not clearly available in public sources. However, available biographies and interviews indicate that she moved to Kathmandu during her teenage years and subsequently pursued educational and professional opportunities.

Members of her family were also involved in mountaineering and mountain tourism. Her elder brother helped her find opportunities to work as a trekking guide.

While working with foreign tourists, she recognised the importance of language, communication and technical skills in mountain tourism.

As she gained experience in trekking, her ambition to pursue mountaineering as a professional career became clearer.

From Trekking Guide to Professional Mountaineer

Dawa Yangzum began working as a trekking guide before attempting major Himalayan peaks.

According to her professional profile published by Alpine Ascents International, she started working as a trekking guide in 2008 and became active in mountaineering in 2009.

During the early years of her career, she also participated in high-altitude running competitions. Her participation included events such as the Everest Sky Race and Annapurna Mandala Trail.

Following her experiences in trekking, high-altitude running and early climbing expeditions, she began undertaking formal mountaineering training.

Early Ascents of Yala Peak, Island Peak and Ama Dablam

Dawa Yangzum's early climbing experience included Yala Peak, Island Peak and Ama Dablam.

According to the Himalayan Database, she successfully climbed Ama Dablam on November 23, 2011.

Located in the Khumbu region, Ama Dablam is known for its technically demanding climbing routes. This ascent marked an important achievement in her early mountaineering career.

These experiences encouraged her continued participation in high-altitude expeditions and professional training.

Technical Training at the Khumbu Climbing Center

Training at the Khumbu Climbing Center (KCC) was an important stage in Dawa Yangzum's professional development.

Located in Phortse, Solukhumbu, the centre provides technical mountaineering skills and safety training.

Its establishment is associated with the initiative of American mountaineers Conrad Anker and Jennifer Lowe-Anker.

According to NNMGA, Dawa Yangzum participated in a Khumbu Climbing Center training programme in 2010. After completing her training in 2011, she also became involved with the centre as an instructor.

The centre provides training in various technical aspects of mountaineering, including equipment use, rock and ice climbing, and mountain safety.

The training she received there helped her progress towards obtaining an internationally recognised mountain-guiding qualification.

First Female IFMGA Mountain Guide from Nepal

In 2017, Dawa Yangzum Sherpa earned IFMGA certification, establishing a milestone in the history of professional mountain guiding in Nepal.

What Is IFMGA/UIAGM Certification?

IFMGA stands for the International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations. Its French name is Union Internationale des Associations de Guides de Montagne (UIAGM).

It is an international professional federation of mountain guides. Its affiliated national associations conduct mountain-guide training and assessments according to international standards.

Such training covers guiding in rocky, snowy and icy mountain terrain, risk assessment, rescue knowledge and climber safety.

IFMGA certification is an internationally recognised professional qualification in mountain guiding. However, separate local permits and legal requirements may apply when working in individual countries.

Her Certification Journey from 2013 to 2017

Dawa Yangzum began the IFMGA mountain-guide certification process in 2013.

After completing multiple stages of training, practical experience and assessments, she obtained certification in 2017.

She thereby became the first female IFMGA/UIAGM-certified mountain guide from Nepal and Asia.

Published profiles from NNMGA, The North Face and Rolex confirm this achievement.

Her certification also marked an important step in expanding women's representation in internationally recognised professional mountain guiding.

First Ascent of Mount Everest in 2012

Dawa Yangzum Sherpa successfully climbed Mount Everest for the first time on May 25, 2012, at the age of 21.

She participated in a Mount Everest expedition associated with Conrad Anker, The North Face and National Geographic.

During the expedition, she carried out various responsibilities, including transporting supplies at high altitude. She reached the summit of Everest during the same expedition.

Her official climbing records list May 25, 2012, as the date of her first successful Everest ascent.

Following this achievement, she continued pursuing mountaineering as a long-term professional career.

In subsequent years, she also participated in expeditions involving scientific research on Mount Everest. These included the 2019 Perpetual Planet Everest Expedition, associated with Rolex and National Geographic.

Historic Ascent of K2 in 2014

On July 26, 2014, Dawa Yangzum Sherpa, Maya Sherpa and Pasang Lhamu Sherpa Akita successfully climbed K2.

Standing at 8,611 metres in Pakistan's Karakoram range, K2 is the world's second-highest mountain.

The three climbers became members of the first Nepali women's team to reach the summit of K2.

Their expedition was associated with an initiative called Women for Change.

The ascent marked an important achievement for Nepali women in international mountaineering.

Dawa Yangzum's personal expedition records, along with reports published by The Himalayan Times and other international news outlets, confirm the successful ascent on July 26, 2014.

First Ascent of Langdung in 2017

Beyond the world's eight-thousanders, Dawa Yangzum has also achieved success in technical alpine climbing.

On December 20, 2017, a four-member Nepali team that included her completed the first successful ascent of Langdung in the Rolwaling region.

The team consisted of Dawa Yangzum Sherpa, Dawa Gyalje Sherpa, Nima Tenji Sherpa and Pasang Kidar Sherpa.

According to a publication of the American Alpine Club and records from the Himalayan Database, the team successfully reached Langdung's main summit.

Previous attempts had been made on the mountain, but no successful ascent of its main summit had been recorded.

The Himalayan Database records December 20, 2017, as the date of Langdung's first ascent.

First Nepali Woman to Summit Makalu in 2019

Dawa Yangzum Sherpa successfully climbed Mount Makalu on May 29, 2019.

With this ascent, she became the first Nepali woman to reach the summit of Makalu, the world's fifth-highest mountain.

Makalu is situated along the Nepal-China border.

Her personal expedition records and a report published by The Himalayan Times confirm the date and significance of the ascent.

Following this achievement, she continued working towards her goal of climbing all 14 mountains above 8,000 metres.

The Makalu ascent added another important milestone to her mountaineering career.

Four Eight-Thousanders Summited in 2021

In 2021, Dawa Yangzum successfully climbed four eight-thousanders: Annapurna I, Lhotse, Manaslu and Dhaulagiri I.

Annapurna I: Summit Without Supplemental Oxygen

On April 16, 2021, Dawa Yangzum and five other Nepali women successfully climbed Annapurna I.

They became the first Nepali women mountaineers to reach its summit.

The six climbers were Dawa Yangzum Sherpa, Maya Sherpa, Pasang Lhamu Sherpa Akita, Purnima Shrestha, Dabuti Sherpa and Sharmila Syangtan Tamang.

Standing at 8,091 metres, Annapurna I is the world's tenth-highest mountain.

Dawa Yangzum completed the ascent without using supplemental oxygen.

The Himalayan Database confirms both her successful Annapurna ascent and the fact that she did not use supplemental oxygen. Rolex and The North Face have also identified her as the first Nepali woman to climb Annapurna I without supplemental oxygen.

Ascent of Lhotse

On May 23, 2021, she successfully climbed Lhotse, the world's fourth-highest mountain.

According to the Himalayan Database, she was the leader of the expedition.

The achievement reflects both her individual climbing ability and her professional leadership experience.

Reaching the True Summit of Manaslu

In September 2021, Dawa Yangzum climbed Mount Manaslu.

According to published information from Rolex and The North Face, she became the first woman to reach Manaslu's true summit during the autumn climbing season.

The distinction between Manaslu's main summit and nearby high points is important in mountaineering records.

Her 2021 ascent is recognised for reaching the mountain's actual highest point.

Ascent of Dhaulagiri I

On October 7, 2021, Dawa Yangzum successfully climbed Dhaulagiri I.

The date is recorded in her official expedition history.

With this ascent, she completed her fourth successful eight-thousander summit of 2021.

Mountaineering Achievements in 2022 and 2023

During 2022 and 2023, Dawa Yangzum continued climbing the remaining eight-thousanders on her list.

In July 2022, she climbed Broad Peak in Pakistan. Her official profile published by The North Face identifies her as the first Nepali woman to summit Broad Peak.

She also successfully climbed Kangchenjunga. However, published sources differ regarding the year of that ascent. A 2024 report by HimalPress lists 2022, while her personal expedition records and some reports published in 2023 identify the ascent as having taken place in 2023.

In 2023, she climbed Nanga Parbat, Gasherbrum I and Gasherbrum II in Pakistan.

She subsequently climbed Cho Oyu on October 1, 2023. Her Cho Oyu ascent is documented in the Himalayan Database.

Following these achievements, Shishapangma was the only eight-thousander remaining on her list.

Shishapangma Summit in 2024: Completion of All 14 Eight-Thousanders

On October 9, 2024, Dawa Yangzum Sherpa reached the summit of Shishapangma, completing her ascent of all 14 mountains above 8,000 metres.

Shishapangma, standing at 8,027 metres, is located in Tibet, China.

It was the final eight-thousander remaining in her climbing campaign.

According to a report published by The Kathmandu Post on October 11, 2024, she reached the summit of Shishapangma at approximately 5:30 a.m. Nepal time on October 9.

The expedition organiser, Climbalaya Treks and Expeditions, also announced her successful ascent.

With this achievement, Dawa Yangzum became the first Nepali woman to climb all 14 of the world's eight-thousanders.

Her journey across the eight-thousanders, which began with her first Everest summit in 2012, was completed on Shishapangma in 2024.

All 14 Eight-Thousanders Climbed by Dawa Yangzum Sherpa

The world's 14 mountains that rise above 8,000 metres are collectively known as the eight-thousanders.

Dawa Yangzum completed her ascents of these mountains between 2012 and 2024.

The following table presents the mountains in descending order of height, along with the climbing years indicated by the available records.

Source note: Published information from her personal website and news reports differs regarding the year of her Kangchenjunga ascent. Therefore, a single definitive date is not presented here. This discrepancy does not change the established fact that she completed all 14 eight-thousanders on October 9, 2024.

Professional Career in International Mountain Guiding

Dawa Yangzum Sherpa's professional work extends beyond the mountains of Nepal.

As an IFMGA-certified guide, she has worked in various mountain regions, including those in the United States.

Working as a Mountain Guide in the United States

In 2015, she joined Alpine Ascents International, a mountaineering organisation based in Seattle, United States.

According to an interview published by OnlineKhabar in 2021, she secured an opportunity to work as a professional mountain guide after participating in the organisation's selection process.

She has guided climbers in the Mount Rainier and Mount Baker regions of the United States.

Her international mountaineering experience also includes Denali in Alaska and Aconcagua in South America.

These experiences expanded the geographical scope of her professional guiding career.

Association with The North Face

In 2019, Dawa Yangzum joined the international athlete team of The North Face, an outdoor equipment and apparel company.

Her official profile on The North Face website describes her mountaineering experience, IFMGA qualification and work providing training opportunities for female climbers.

She has also participated in mountaineering expeditions and training activities associated with the company.

Professional Association with Rolex

In 2022, Dawa Yangzum became an official Rolex Testimonee, joining the Swiss watchmaker's group of representatives.

Support provided through the Rolex Perpetual Planet Initiative has contributed to rock- and ice-climbing training opportunities for Nepali women and girls.

Rolex has also stated that it supported her campaign to climb all 14 eight-thousanders.

Training and Contributions to Nepali Women Mountaineers

Dawa Yangzum Sherpa is actively involved in providing technical mountaineering training to Nepali women and girls.

She has conducted training and mentoring programmes to share her climbing experience with the next generation.

According to her personal website, she regularly organises high-altitude climbing training for women.

Her training activities cover technical skills in rock and ice climbing, as well as mountain safety.

Organisations including Rolex have provided support for these activities.

Dawa Yangzum's initiatives are particularly concerned with expanding opportunities for Nepali women and girls who have limited access to technical mountaineering training.

Through her association with the Khumbu Climbing Center, she has also served as an instructor and mentor.

Her contributions therefore extend beyond personal climbing achievements to the transfer of technical knowledge and professional experience.

Women's Participation and Leadership in Mountaineering

Dawa Yangzum's mountaineering career is closely connected with women's professional participation and leadership in the field.

At a time when men had historically dominated professional mountain guiding, her IFMGA certification marked a significant achievement in women's representation at the international level.

In various interviews, she has discussed the challenges she encountered during the early stages of her mountaineering career.

Her experiences highlight the importance of technical training, access to equipment, financial support and professional opportunities.

There is also an important distinction between being a mountaineer and becoming a certified mountain guide.

Climbing a mountain can represent an individual or team achievement. Becoming a certified mountain guide, however, requires formal training, practical experience and professional assessment.

Dawa Yangzum has achieved recognition in both fields.

She became the first Nepali woman to qualify as an IFMGA mountain guide and subsequently the first Nepali woman to climb all 14 of the world's eight-thousanders.

Awards, Honours and Professional Recognition

Dawa Yangzum Sherpa has received recognition for her achievements in mountaineering and professional mountain guiding.

In an article published in October 2024, The Himalayan Times reported that she had received the Kumar Khadga Bikram Adventure Award and the Tenzing-Hillary Award.

Her IFMGA certification, historic K2 ascent and completion of all 14 eight-thousanders are also among her major professional achievements.

Her associations with international organisations such as The North Face and Rolex have become part of her professional mountaineering career.

Dawa Yangzum Sherpa's Place in Nepal's Mountaineering History

Dawa Yangzum Sherpa's contribution to mountaineering can be understood through three main areas: climbing achievements, professional certification and training opportunities for women.

Her K2 ascent in 2014 established a new milestone for Nepali women mountaineers. Her IFMGA certification in 2017 strengthened her professional standing in international mountain guiding.

Following her ascents of Makalu in 2019 and Annapurna I in 2021, she completed all 14 eight-thousanders in 2024.

These achievements have established her place in the history of Nepali women's mountaineering.

Her involvement in technical training and mentoring has also contributed to opportunities for the next generation of female climbers to develop essential mountaineering skills.

Dawa Yangzum's career represents more than personal success on mountain summits. It is also part of the history of internationally recognised professional qualifications, mountain leadership and women's participation in Nepali mountaineering.

References and Sources

1. Nepal National Mountain Guide Association (NNMGA) – Dawa Yangzum Sherpa — Early life, training, IFMGA certification and professional experience.

2. Dawa Yangzum Sherpa – Official Expedition Records — Personal expedition records, climbing achievements and summit dates.

3. The North Face – Dawa Yangzum Sherpa — Professional biography, mountaineering achievements and training activities.

4. Rolex – Dawa Yangzum Sherpa and 14 Peaks — IFMGA qualification, Annapurna ascent, training initiatives and completion of all 14 eight-thousanders.

5. Himalayan Database – Annapurna I Expedition 2021 — Official records documenting her Annapurna I ascent and use of supplemental oxygen.

6. Himalayan Database – Lhotse Expedition 2021 — Lhotse summit date and expedition leadership.

7. Himalayan Database – Cho Oyu Expedition 2023 — Record of the Cho Oyu ascent.

8. American Alpine Club – Langdung, Southwest Face and Southeast Ridge — The first successful ascent of Langdung in 2017.

9. The Kathmandu Post – Dawa Yangzum Sherpa Becomes First Nepali Woman to Summit All 8000ers — Report published on October 11, 2024, documenting her Shishapangma ascent and completion of all 14 eight-thousanders.

10. The Kathmandu Post – Six Women Become the First Nepali Women to Climb Annapurna I — Report on the historic Annapurna I ascent on April 16, 2021.

11. HimalPress – Dawa Yangzum First Nepali Woman to Complete 14 Peaks — Report published on October 9, 2024, concerning her completion of all 14 eight-thousanders.

12. The Himalayan Times – Dawa Yangzum Scales Nanga Parbat, Completing 10 of 14 Peaks — Contemporary reporting on her Nanga Parbat ascent in July 2023 and information concerning her Kangchenjunga climbing record.