Mingma Gyalje Sherpa Biography: From Historic K2 Winter Ascent to 14 Peaks Without Oxygen

Mingma Gyalje Sherpa, internationally known as Mingma G, is a Nepali mountaineer, internationally certified mountain guide, and mountaineering entrepreneur. He was one of the leaders of the 10-member Nepali team that completed the first successful winter ascent of K2, the world's second-highest mountain, on January 16, 2021.

On October 4, 2024, he reached the main summit of Shishapangma in Tibet without supplemental oxygen, completing his campaign to climb all 14 mountains above 8,000 meters without using supplemental oxygen. Expedition operator Imagine Nepal and international mountaineering publications identified him as the first Nepali citizen to achieve this milestone.

Born in Beding village in the Rolwaling Valley of Dolakha district, Mingma Gyalje began his professional mountaineering career in 2006. His other significant achievements include a solo ascent of a new route on the west face of Chobutse in 2015 and his role in establishing a new route to Manaslu's true summit in 2021.

He is an International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations (IFMGA/UIAGM) certified mountain guide and the founder and managing director of Imagine Nepal Trek and Expedition.

Mingma Gyalje Sherpa: Quick Facts

Difference Between Mingma Gyalje Sherpa and Other Climbers Named Mingma

Several Nepali mountaineers named Mingma have established international climbing records. Among them, Mingma Gyalje Sherpa, Mingma Sherpa, and Mingma Gyabu Sherpa are three different individuals with distinct achievements.

Mingma Gyalje Sherpa (Mingma G)

Mingma Gyalje Sherpa, from the Rolwaling region of Dolakha, is the mountaineer featured in this biography.

He was a member of the historic K2 winter expedition in 2021 and completed his campaign to climb all 14 mountains above 8,000 meters without supplemental oxygen in 2024.

Mingma Sherpa

Mingma Sherpa, from the Makalu region of Sankhuwasabha district, is the chairman of Seven Summit Treks.

After summiting Kangchenjunga in 2011, he became the first Nepali and the first South Asian mountaineer to climb all 14 mountains above 8,000 meters.

His achievement relates to being the first Nepali to complete all 14 eight-thousanders, while Mingma Gyalje Sherpa's 2024 achievement specifically involved completing those climbs without supplemental oxygen.

Mingma Gyabu "David" Sherpa

Mingma Gyabu Sherpa, commonly known as Mingma David Sherpa, is another Nepali mountaineer.

He completed the ascent of all 14 mountains above 8,000 meters in 2019.

He was also among the 10 Nepali climbers who completed the first successful winter ascent of K2 in 2021.

These three mountaineers have separate climbing histories and individual achievements, which should not be confused.

Birthplace and Family Background

Mingma Gyalje Sherpa was born in Beding, a village in the Rolwaling Valley of Dolakha district, Nepal.

He spent his childhood in a mountainous region closely associated with the mountaineering traditions and culture of the Sherpa community.

The livelihoods of Rolwaling Valley residents have traditionally been connected to mountain life, with trekking and mountaineering-related work also playing an important role.

Mountain guides and technical climbers from different generations of the community have worked in the mountaineering industry.

In a first-person account published in the American Alpine Journal in 2016, Mingma Gyalje explained that he could see the west face of Chobutse from his home village and had long wanted to climb it.

According to that account, he later named the new route he established on Chobutse the Dorjee Sherpa Route, in memory of his late father, Dorjee Sherpa.

Entry into Mountaineering and Professional Qualifications

Mingma Gyalje Sherpa began his professional mountaineering career in 2006.

According to his official profile published by Imagine Nepal, he joined a Japanese expedition to Manaslu that year as a Climbing Sherpa.

He subsequently worked with several mountaineering companies, gaining experience in high-altitude guiding, expedition management, and technical climbing.

International Mountain Guide Certification

Mingma Gyalje is an IFMGA/UIAGM-certified mountain guide.

IFMGA stands for the International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations, an international organization associated with professional standards for mountain guiding.

Certification under this system involves training and assessment in mountain guiding, rock and ice climbing, mountain risk management, and other technical skills.

The Nepal National Mountain Guide Association (NNMGA) also lists Mingma Gyalje as an IFMGA/UIAGM-certified mountain guide.

Early Mountaineering Career

Following the 2006 Manaslu expedition, Mingma Gyalje established high-altitude climbing as his professional field.

He first summited Mount Everest in 2007. In subsequent years, he participated in expeditions to Everest, K2, Kangchenjunga, Makalu, Lhotse, and other high mountains.

His climbing career extended beyond guiding and leading commercial expeditions.

He also pursued new routes, technical climbs, and independent expeditions on less frequently climbed mountains.

His solo ascent of the west face of Chobutse in 2015 is a significant example of this aspect of his mountaineering career.

Historic Solo Ascent of Chobutse's West Face (2015)

On October 28, 2015, Mingma Gyalje Sherpa completed a solo ascent of Chobutse in the Rolwaling region, establishing a new route on the mountain's west face.

According to his firsthand account published in the American Alpine Journal in 2016, there was no recorded successful ascent of Chobutse's west face before his climb.

The publication lists the mountain's elevation as 6,686 meters.

Preparation for the Ascent

Mingma Gyalje received his climbing permit on October 12, 2015.

He subsequently traveled to the Rolwaling region. After climbing Parchamo on October 25, he reached Chobutse Base Camp on October 27.

At 4:00 a.m. on October 28, he began his solo ascent of the west face.

According to his published account, the upper section of the west face consisted of difficult terrain involving rock, snow, and ice.

Approximately 13 hours after beginning the climb, he reached the upper ridge. From there, he continued to the mountain's highest point.

Bad Weather and Rescue

Weather conditions deteriorated after Mingma Gyalje reached the summit, affecting his descent.

Poor visibility and unfavorable mountain conditions forced him to spend two nights on the mountain.

After the weather improved, he was rescued by helicopter on October 30.

Mingma Gyalje has described this ascent as one of the most difficult experiences of his mountaineering career.

Historical Significance of the Chobutse Ascent

Chobutse had already been climbed for the first time in 1972, when a team of German mountaineers completed its first recorded successful ascent.

Therefore, Mingma Gyalje's achievement in 2015 should not be described as the first ascent of Chobutse itself.

His achievement was the first successful ascent of a new route on the west face, completed solo.

The American Alpine Journal documented the climb as the first technical solo ascent of a new route by a Nepali climber in Nepal.

He named the route the Dorjee Sherpa Route in memory of his late father.

Establishment and Leadership of Imagine Nepal

Mingma Gyalje Sherpa established Imagine Nepal Trek and Expedition in 2016.

Before founding the company, he had worked for approximately a decade with different mountaineering companies as a Climbing Sherpa and mountain guide.

Imagine Nepal is a Kathmandu-based trekking and mountaineering company that has organized expeditions in Nepal, Pakistan, and the Tibet region of China.

Mingma Gyalje serves as its founder and managing director.

Through the company, he has led and managed high-altitude expeditions involving both Nepali and international climbers.

The 2021 Manaslu true-summit expedition and the 2024 Shishapangma expedition were also associated with Imagine Nepal's leadership and management.

Historic First Winter Ascent of K2 (2021)

On January 16, 2021, a team of 10 Nepali mountaineers, including Mingma Gyalje Sherpa, completed the first successful winter ascent of K2, the world's second-highest mountain.

K2 stands at 8,611 meters in the Karakoram range, along the border between Pakistan and China.

Before 2021, K2 was the only mountain among the world's 14 eight-thousanders that had not been successfully climbed in winter.

The historic achievement resulted from a joint effort by Nepali climbers associated with three separate expeditions.

Formation of the Joint Nepali Team

Several mountaineering expeditions arrived in Pakistan toward the end of 2020 to attempt a winter ascent of K2.

Mingma Gyalje joined the expedition with his fellow climbers Dawa Tenzing Sherpa and Kili Pemba Sherpa.

Another Nepali team led by Nirmal Purja and climbers associated with Seven Summit Treks were also on K2.

During the expedition, the groups began cooperating on route preparation and other climbing activities.

Eventually, 10 Nepali mountaineers from the three separate expeditions decided to make a joint summit attempt.

The 10 Nepali Climbers Who Made the First Winter Ascent of K2

According to the historical climbing record published in the American Alpine Journal, the following 10 Nepali mountaineers reached the summit of K2 on January 16, 2021:

1. Mingma Gyalje Sherpa

2. Nirmal Purja

3. Mingma David Sherpa

4. Mingma Tenzi Sherpa

5. Gelje Sherpa

6. Dawa Temba Sherpa

7. Dawa Tenjin Sherpa

8. Kilu/Kili Pemba Sherpa

9. Pem Chhiri Sherpa

10. Sona Sherpa

Although the climbers belonged to three different expeditions, they proceeded as a single team during the final summit push.

The Historic Summit on January 16

On January 16, 2021, the joint Nepali team made its final ascent toward the summit of K2.

In his account published in the American Alpine Journal, Mingma Gyalje stated that all team members gathered a short distance below the summit.

The 10 climbers then continued together and reached the summit at 4:43 p.m. local time, singing Nepal's national anthem.

This marked the first successful winter ascent in K2's history.

Guinness World Records also recognizes the achievement of the joint Nepali team on January 16, 2021.

Did Mingma Gyalje Use Supplemental Oxygen During the K2 Winter Ascent?

Mingma Gyalje Sherpa used supplemental oxygen during the historic K2 winter ascent in 2021.

According to the climbing record published in the American Alpine Journal, Nirmal Purja was the only member of the 10-person team who did not use supplemental oxygen on summit day.

Mingma Gyalje and the other eight climbers used supplemental oxygen.

Therefore, claims that Mingma Gyalje completed the 2021 winter ascent of K2 without supplemental oxygen are incorrect.

His later achievement of climbing all 14 eight-thousanders without supplemental oxygen is a separate mountaineering milestone.

New Route to the True Summit of Manaslu (2021)

On September 27, 2021, an Imagine Nepal team led by Mingma Gyalje Sherpa reached the true summit of Manaslu by establishing a new route.

Manaslu, standing at 8,163 meters in Nepal, is the world's eighth-highest mountain.

Difference Between the Fore-Summit and True Summit

The distinction between Manaslu's fore-summit and its true summit has long been an important issue in mountaineering records.

Because of the difficult terrain in the final section leading to the highest point, many climbers had previously reached the fore-summit and turned back without reaching the true summit.

Researchers and mountaineering record-keepers have examined and reviewed which point should qualify as a successful summit ascent at different times.

The Historic Ascent on September 27

On September 27, 2021, Mingma Gyalje's team successfully climbed Manaslu's true summit.

According to The Himalayan Database, Mingma Gyalje reached the main summit at 9:38 a.m. local time.

The team identified a route that involved descending slightly from the fore-summit before approaching the true summit from another section.

The expedition helped establish an alternative route to Manaslu's highest point.

In a report published on September 30, 2021, The Kathmandu Post described the ascent as the first successful autumn ascent of Manaslu's main summit since 1976.

Use of Supplemental Oxygen on Manaslu

Mingma Gyalje used supplemental oxygen when he reached Manaslu's true summit on September 27, 2021.

This detail is supported by the expedition record in The Himalayan Database and information published by the Nepal National Mountain Guide Association in 2025.

He subsequently climbed Manaslu's true summit without supplemental oxygen in 2023, 2024, and 2025.

His achievement in opening a new route in 2021 and his subsequent ascents without supplemental oxygen are recorded as separate events.

Completing All 14 Eight-Thousanders Without Supplemental Oxygen (2024)

On October 4, 2024, Mingma Gyalje Sherpa completed his campaign to climb all 14 mountains above 8,000 meters without supplemental oxygen after successfully ascending Shishapangma.

ExplorersWeb, The Himalayan Times, and other international news sources identified him as the first Nepali citizen to accomplish this achievement.

What Does Climbing Without Supplemental Oxygen Mean?

Climbing without supplemental oxygen means ascending a high mountain without using additional oxygen supplied through cylinders or other equipment.

As altitude increases, atmospheric pressure decreases. Consequently, less oxygen is available to the body with each breath compared with conditions at sea level.

In mountaineering records, ascents above 8,000 meters are distinguished according to whether climbers used supplemental oxygen.

Completing all 14 eight-thousanders and completing all 14 without supplemental oxygen are therefore two different achievements.

Major Ascents During the Campaign

Mingma Gyalje has climbed several mountains more than once during his mountaineering career.

Some of his ascents were completed with supplemental oxygen, while others were completed without it.

According to published climbing records, he climbed K2, Makalu, and Nanga Parbat without supplemental oxygen in 2017.

He also climbed Lhotse and Broad Peak without supplemental oxygen in 2018.

In 2022, he completed ascents of Mount Everest, Kangchenjunga, and Dhaulagiri I without supplemental oxygen.

On Manaslu, he reached the true summit using supplemental oxygen in 2021 and completed subsequent ascents without supplemental oxygen in 2023 and 2024.

Some earlier news reports included the 2021 Manaslu ascent in lists of his oxygen-free climbs. However, records maintained by The Himalayan Database and the Nepal National Mountain Guide Association confirm that he used supplemental oxygen during the 2021 true-summit ascent.

It is therefore important to distinguish individual ascents of the same mountain from the overall achievement of completing all 14 eight-thousanders without supplemental oxygen.

Shishapangma Ascent and Completion of the Campaign

Shishapangma was the final mountain remaining in Mingma Gyalje's campaign to complete all 14 eight-thousanders without supplemental oxygen.

The mountain stands at 8,027 meters in the Tibet region of China.

On October 4, 2024, an Imagine Nepal expedition team successfully reached Shishapangma's main summit.

According to The Himalayan Times, the expedition organizer reported that Mingma Gyalje reached the summit at approximately 4:06 p.m. local time.

ExplorersWeb reported on the same day that he had completed the ascent without supplemental oxygen.

Following the successful summit, the completion of his 14-peak campaign without supplemental oxygen was announced.

What Are the World's 14 Mountains Above 8,000 Meters?

The following are the 14 generally recognized mountains exceeding 8,000 meters in elevation.

These mountains are situated in Himalayan and Karakoram regions associated with Nepal, China, India, and Pakistan.

For mountaineering records covering all 14 peaks, evidence of reaching the true summit and documentation of supplemental oxygen use are important considerations.

Completion of the Seven Summits Challenge (2024)

Mingma Gyalje Sherpa completed the Seven Summits challenge on December 27, 2024, after successfully climbing Aconcagua in Argentina.

The Seven Summits challenge involves climbing the highest mountain on each of the world's seven continents.

According to an update published by Imagine Nepal on December 28, 2024, Mingma Gyalje climbed Denali, Carstensz Pyramid, Elbrus, Vinson, Kilimanjaro, and Aconcagua during that year.

He had already climbed Mount Everest in previous years.

With his successful ascent of Aconcagua, he completed his campaign to reach the highest summit on each continent.

Another Manaslu Ascent in 2025

On September 23, 2025, Mingma Gyalje Sherpa once again reached the summit of Manaslu.

According to an expedition update published by Imagine Nepal, this was his eighth summit ascent of Manaslu.

The company stated that seven of those ascents had been completed without supplemental oxygen.

However, the total includes earlier ascents of the mountain's fore-summit.

According to information published by the Nepal National Mountain Guide Association on October 3, 2025, the September 2025 expedition marked his fourth successful ascent of Manaslu's true summit.

Of those four true-summit ascents, he used supplemental oxygen in 2021 but climbed without it in 2023, 2024, and 2025.

Distinguishing fore-summit ascents from true-summit ascents provides a more accurate understanding of his Manaslu climbing record.

Seventh Mount Everest Ascent in 2026

Mingma Gyalje Sherpa successfully climbed Mount Everest for the seventh time on May 22, 2026.

In a report published on May 24, 2026, The Tourism Times stated that he had announced he did not intend to climb Everest again after completing his seventh ascent.

According to the report, his seven successful Mount Everest ascents took place in the following years:

• 2007

• 2010

• 2011

• 2012

• 2016

• 2022

• 2026

Following his 2026 ascent, he publicly announced his decision to step away from further Everest climbs.

Awards and Recognition

Mingma Gyalje Sherpa has received recognition at different times for his mountaineering achievements.

Following the historic first winter ascent of K2 in 2021, the joint Nepali team received a public welcome and recognition upon returning to Nepal.

His individual contributions to mountaineering have also received official government recognition.

International Sagarmatha Award 2082

In 2025, the Government of Nepal presented Mingma Gyalje Sherpa with the International Sagarmatha Award 2082.

According to a report published by The Himalayan Times on June 12, 2025, he received the award at an event associated with International Everest Day and the World Summiters Summit.

The then Prime Minister, KP Sharma Oli, honored him during the event.

The award represented formal government recognition of his contributions to mountaineering.

Mingma Gyalje Sherpa's Contributions to Nepali Mountaineering

Three significant aspects of Mingma Gyalje Sherpa's career are his technical climbing achievements, leadership in joint expeditions, and contributions to accurate mountaineering records.

Technical Climbing and New Routes

His solo ascent of a new route on Chobutse's west face in 2015 established a documented example of Nepali participation in technical mountaineering.

The ascent was completed through a new route, and his firsthand account was published in the American Alpine Journal.

Leadership and Cooperation Among Nepali Climbers

The historic K2 winter ascent in 2021 was a collective achievement of Nepali mountaineers.

Mingma Gyalje led his own team while cooperating with other Nepali climbing groups.

The expedition is documented as the shared historical achievement of 10 Nepali climbers rather than the success of any single individual.

Importance of Reaching the True Summit

The establishment of a new route to Manaslu's true summit in 2021 demonstrated the importance of reaching the mountain's actual highest point and maintaining evidence of the ascent.

Subsequent mountaineering records have also placed greater attention on distinguishing the fore-summit from the true summit.

Mingma Gyalje's Manaslu expedition remains a significant event associated with this issue.

Nepali Leadership in International Mountaineering Expeditions

Through Imagine Nepal, Mingma Gyalje has led high-altitude expeditions involving both Nepali and international climbers.

His professional career progressed from working as a Climbing Sherpa to becoming an internationally certified mountain guide and leading his own mountaineering company.

His experience demonstrates how the roles of Nepali mountaineers extend beyond high-altitude support to expedition management, route identification, and technical leadership.

Conclusion

Mingma Gyalje Sherpa is an important figure in Nepali mountaineering history, particularly for his technical climbing achievements, leadership in international expeditions, and high-altitude mountaineering records.

His major accomplishments include the solo ascent of a new route on Chobutse's west face in 2015, participation in the historic first winter ascent of K2 in 2021, and the establishment of a new route to Manaslu's true summit that same year.

On October 4, 2024, he completed his campaign to climb all 14 eight-thousanders without supplemental oxygen after successfully ascending Shishapangma. He also completed the Seven Summits challenge in 2024.

His later documented achievements include another ascent of Manaslu's true summit in 2025 and his seventh Mount Everest ascent in 2026.

Beyond his individual climbing records, his mountaineering career reflects the technical expertise, cooperation, and international expedition leadership of Nepali mountain guides.

References and Sources

The historical events, climbing dates, use of supplemental oxygen, and professional achievements described in this biography are based on the following sources.

1. American Alpine Club. (2016). Chobutse, West Face, Dorjee Sherpa Route. American Alpine Journal. A firsthand account by Mingma Gyalje Sherpa.

2. American Alpine Club. (2021). K2 in Winter: Ten Nepalese Climbers Make History. American Alpine Journal. Author: Mingma Gyalje Sherpa.

3. Imagine Nepal Trek and Expedition. Mingma G—Managing Director and Mountaineer Profile.

4. Nepal National Mountain Guide Association. Mingma G—Certified Mountain Guide Profile. 

5. Guinness World Records. First Winter Ascent of K2.

6. The Himalayan Database. Manaslu 2021—Imagine Nepal Real Summit Manaslu Expedition. Expedition record: MANA21302.

7. The Kathmandu Post. (September 30, 2021). First in 45 Years, 22 Climbers Make Rare Autumn Ascent of Manaslu Main Summit. Author: Sangam Prasain.

8. ExplorersWeb. (October 4, 2024). Mingma G Becomes the First Nepali to Climb All 14 8,000'ers Without O2. Author: Angela Benavides.

9. ExplorersWeb. (October 8, 2024). Mingma G on Shisha Pangma: Conditions, Oxygen, Purja, and More. Author: Angela Benavides.

10. The Himalayan Times. (October 4, 2024). Mingma G Becomes First Nepali Climber to Scale 14 Peaks Without Supplemental Oxygen.

11. Imagine Nepal Trek and Expedition. (December 28, 2024). Aconcagua Summit by Imagine Nepal Team, Marking the Completion of Seven Summits.

12. Nepal National Mountain Guide Association. (October 3, 2025). Mingma G Sherpa Summits Manaslu Without Supplemental Oxygen for the Third Time.

13. Imagine Nepal Trek and Expedition. (September 23, 2025). Manaslu Expedition 2025: Summit Update.

14. The Himalayan Times. (June 12, 2025). Legendary Climber Mingma G Honoured with Intl Sagarmatha Award.

15. The Tourism Times. (May 24, 2026). Record-Holding Mingma G Retires from Everest Climb After Seventh Ascent.

16. Seven Summit Treks. Mingma Sherpa—Chairman and Mountaineer Profile.