Kami Rita Sherpa Biography: Mountaineering Career and Everest World Records

Kami Rita Sherpa is a Nepali mountaineer and senior high-altitude guide who holds the world record for the most successful ascents of Mount Everest, the world's highest mountain at 8,848.86 meters. Born on January 17, 1970, in Thame village, Solukhumbu district, Nepal, he first reached the summit of Everest on May 13, 1994.

On May 17, 2026, he broke his own world record by successfully climbing Everest for the 32nd time. According to Guinness World Records, he reached the summit at 10:12 a.m. that day. He was 56 years old at the time.

In addition to Everest, Kami Rita has successfully climbed several other mountains above 8,000 meters, including Cho Oyu, Manaslu, Lhotse, and K2. He began working in mountaineering expeditions in 1992 and gradually progressed from a support worker to a senior climbing guide and leader of rope-fixing teams.

His mountaineering career, spanning more than three decades, reflects not only his personal achievements but also important aspects of Nepal's professional mountaineering industry, the contribution of the Sherpa community, and the working lives of high-altitude expedition workers.

Kami Rita Sherpa: Personal Profile

This profile is based on records and published information available through October 21, 2026, including Guinness World Records, The Himalayan Database, mountaineering organization records, and news reports.

Birth, Family Background, and Childhood

Kami Rita Sherpa was born in Thame village in Nepal's Solukhumbu district, Koshi Province. The village, now part of Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality, has a long association with mountain life and mountaineering.

His family had an established connection with the mountaineering profession. His father was among the early Nepali Sherpa guides who began working in the industry as foreign mountaineering expeditions started arriving in Nepal.

From the 1950s onward, the arrival of foreign climbing teams gradually expanded employment opportunities related to mountaineering and tourism in the Khumbu region. Kami Rita grew up in this setting.

His elder brother, Lakpa Rita Sherpa, is also a mountaineer who has successfully climbed Everest 17 times. The family's involvement in mountaineering introduced Kami Rita to Himalayan expeditions and the working lives of expedition personnel from an early age.

In a 2018 interview with the Associated Press, Kami Rita explained that his family faced financial difficulties during his childhood and that mountaineering had become an important source of employment at the time.

He said that the goods and earnings brought home by people returning from mountain expeditions also attracted him to the profession.

Early Education and Experience at a Monastery

Kami Rita Sherpa received his early schooling in Thame village. However, financial difficulties and the circumstances of the time prevented him from continuing his formal education to a higher level.

Published accounts of his early life indicate that he spent some time at Thame Monastery. During his teenage years, he also considered pursuing a Buddhist religious life.

He eventually chose mountaineering as a profession instead.

His family's financial needs and the limited employment opportunities available locally appear to have influenced this decision. At the time, mountaineering and tourism-related work provided an important source of income for families in the Khumbu region.

Beginning His Mountaineering Career in 1992

Kami Rita Sherpa began his professional mountaineering career in 1992 at the age of 22.

He initially worked on Everest expeditions transporting equipment and assisting in the kitchen at base camp. These responsibilities helped him gain experience in expedition management, logistics, and operations in high-altitude mountain areas.

His elder brother, Lakpa Rita Sherpa, was also involved in expedition management and guiding at the time. His brother's involvement helped Kami Rita enter the mountaineering industry.

During the early stage of his career, which began in 1992, his responsibilities were mainly associated with support work at base camp. He later gained opportunities to work with climbing teams at higher elevations.

First Everest Summit on May 13, 1994

May 13, 1994, marked an important milestone in Kami Rita Sherpa's mountaineering career. On that day, he successfully reached the summit of Mount Everest for the first time, at the age of 24.

According to records maintained by The Himalayan Database, he participated in the expedition as a high-altitude worker. The database records May 13, 1994, as the date of his successful ascent.

After his first successful summit, he continued working in mountaineering.

He also participated in an Everest expedition in 1995 but did not reach the summit that year.

On May 25, 1997, he successfully climbed Everest for the second time. He subsequently reached the summit in 1998, 1999, and 2000.

The climbing experience he gained during these early years helped advance his professional career as a mountain guide.

Professional Mountaineering Career and Major Responsibilities

Kami Rita's mountaineering career extends beyond his personal achievements in reaching mountain summits. He has worked as a high-altitude guide and team leader on various expeditions.

High-altitude guides assist climbing teams using their knowledge of mountain terrain, weather conditions, climbing routes, and associated risks.

Their responsibilities include guiding climbers, coordinating with other expedition personnel, and supporting the safe movement of climbing teams.

Throughout his professional career, Kami Rita has worked with foreign climbing expeditions and led teams of Nepali climbing support personnel.

He has been associated with Seven Summit Treks as a senior climbing guide. Earlier in his career, he also worked with international mountaineering organizations.

In 2025, he guided an Indian Army climbing expedition through Seven Summit Treks. During his 32nd Everest ascent in 2026, he led an international climbing team operating under 14 Peaks Expedition.

Role in Rope-Fixing Teams

Preparing climbing routes and managing fixed ropes on the upper sections of Everest are important tasks in commercial mountaineering operations.

Experienced high-altitude guides participate in this work. Kami Rita has been involved with such teams in different years.

In 2009, 2010, and 2013, he participated in Everest ascents associated with rope-fixing operations.

In 2022, he led an 11-member team of Nepali high-altitude guides that completed the task of fixing ropes to the summit of Everest.

During this expedition, completed on May 7, 2022, Kami Rita successfully climbed Everest for the 26th time.

According to The Kathmandu Post, he reached the summit with his team at 6:55 p.m. that day. It was also the first successful Everest ascent of the 2022 spring climbing season.

History of Everest Ascents and World Records

Kami Rita Sherpa climbed Everest in various years between 1994 and 2026. During this period, he also reached the summit twice in a single spring climbing season in several years, increasing his total number of successful ascents.

1994–2008: Expanding His Mountaineering Experience

Following his first successful ascent in 1994, Kami Rita climbed Everest for four consecutive years from 1997 through 2000.

In 2001, he successfully climbed Cho Oyu instead of Everest.

From 2002 through 2008, he continued reaching the summit of Everest every year.

By 2008, his total number of successful Everest ascents had reached 12.

During this period, he worked on various professional mountaineering expeditions.

2009–2013: Two Everest Ascents in a Single Season

In 2009, Kami Rita successfully climbed Everest twice during the same spring climbing season for the first time.

He completed his 13th ascent on May 5 and his 14th on May 23.

He again reached the summit twice in 2010, on May 5 and May 24, bringing his total to 16 ascents.

In 2011, he climbed Lhotse and Cho Oyu instead of Everest.

On May 18, 2012, he reached the summit of Everest for the 17th time.

In 2013, he again completed two successful Everest ascents in a single season, reaching the summit for the 18th time on May 10 and the 19th time on May 22.

Historical records of these climbs are maintained by mountaineering organizations and The Himalayan Database.

2014–2015: Disruptions Caused by Natural Disasters

Two major natural disasters in the Everest region in 2014 and 2015 severely affected mountaineering activities.

On April 18, 2014, an avalanche in the Khumbu Icefall claimed the lives of 16 Nepali climbing support workers.

Kami Rita was working at Everest Base Camp at the time. According to an Associated Press report, members of his team were also affected by the incident.

The following year, on April 25, 2015, a powerful earthquake in Nepal triggered an avalanche in the Everest Base Camp area. The incident caused extensive damage at base camp.

As a result of these events, Kami Rita did not complete a successful Everest ascent in either 2014 or 2015.

2016–2017: Equaling the Previous World Record

On May 20, 2016, Kami Rita successfully climbed Everest for the 20th time.

He subsequently reached the summit for the 21st time on May 27, 2017.

With this ascent, he equaled the then-shared world record of 21 Everest summits held by Apa Sherpa and Phurba Tashi Sherpa.

Both Apa Sherpa and Phurba Tashi Sherpa had already retired from high-altitude climbing.

2018: Setting a Sole World Record with His 22nd Ascent

On May 16, 2018, Kami Rita Sherpa established a new world record by successfully climbing Everest for the 22nd time.

With this achievement, he surpassed the previous shared record held by Apa Sherpa and Phurba Tashi Sherpa.

He became the first person to reach the summit of Everest 22 times.

He was 48 years old at the time. Tourism officials from the Government of Nepal confirmed his successful ascent.

Since establishing the sole record for the most Everest ascents in 2018, he has continued improving his own record in subsequent years.

2019: Reaching 24 Everest Summits

In 2019, Kami Rita successfully climbed Everest twice within one week.

He reached the summit for the 23rd time on May 15 and for the 24th time on May 21.

By completing two successful ascents six days apart, he improved his own world record.

2020–2022: Returning to Everest After the Pandemic

In 2020, Everest climbing expeditions from the Nepal side were suspended because of the COVID-19 pandemic.

Consequently, Kami Rita did not climb Everest that year.

On May 7, 2021, he successfully reached the summit for the 25th time.

One year later, on May 7, 2022, he improved his world record by completing his 26th successful Everest ascent.

During that expedition, he led a Nepali rope-fixing team.

2023: Completing 28 Everest Ascents

In 2023, Kami Rita successfully climbed Everest twice during the same spring climbing season.

He completed his 27th ascent on May 17.

Six days later, on May 23, he reached the summit again, bringing his total to 28 successful ascents.

During that period, another Nepali mountaineer, Pasang Dawa Sherpa, was also increasing his number of Everest summits. However, Kami Rita maintained his sole world record after completing his 28th ascent.

2024: Becoming the First Person to Climb Everest 30 Times

In 2024, Kami Rita increased his total number of successful Everest ascents to 30.

He completed his 29th ascent on May 12 that year.

Ten days later, on May 22, he reached the summit of Everest for the 30th time.

According to The Kathmandu Post, he reached the summit at 7:49 a.m. on May 22.

With this achievement, he became the first person to successfully climb Everest 30 times.

2025: Completing His 31st Everest Ascent

On May 27, 2025, Kami Rita Sherpa successfully climbed Everest for the 31st time.

According to Guinness World Records, he reached the summit at approximately 4 a.m. that day.

During the expedition, he was guiding Indian Army climbers through Seven Summit Treks.

The ascent, completed at the age of 55, improved his previous world record of 30 Everest summits established in 2024.

2026: The 32nd Everest Ascent and a New World Record

On May 17, 2026, Kami Rita Sherpa improved his own world record once again by successfully climbing Everest for the 32nd time.

According to the field office of Nepal's Department of Tourism at Everest Base Camp, he reached the summit at 10:12 a.m. that day.

During this expedition, he was leading an international climbing team operated by 14 Peaks Expedition.

Guinness World Records confirmed his 32nd ascent in a report published on June 2, 2026.

By that time, another Nepali mountain guide, Pasang Dawa Sherpa, had successfully climbed Everest 31 times.

Kami Rita therefore maintained the sole world record for the highest number of successful Everest ascents.

Timeline of Kami Rita Sherpa's Everest Climbing Records

The following table presents the major ascents and milestones in Kami Rita Sherpa's mountaineering career.

This table is a timeline of major summit dates and achievements rather than a complete list of every ascent.

Other Mountains Above 8,000 Meters Climbed by Kami Rita Sherpa

In addition to Everest, Kami Rita Sherpa has successfully climbed Cho Oyu, Manaslu, Lhotse, and K2.

These four mountains are among the world's 14 peaks that rise above 8,000 meters.

Cho Oyu

Cho Oyu is an 8,188-meter mountain located on the border between Nepal and China. It is the sixth-highest mountain in the world.

According to the mountaineer profile published by Seven Summit Treks, Kami Rita has successfully climbed Cho Oyu eight times.

His Cho Oyu ascents took place in 2001, 2004, 2006, 2009, 2011, 2013, 2014, and 2016.

Manaslu

Manaslu is an 8,163-meter mountain located in the Gorkha region of Nepal. It is the eighth-highest mountain in the world.

Kami Rita has climbed Manaslu in different years.

Seven Summit Treks lists five Manaslu ascents in his climbing record. However, historical Manaslu ascents require a distinction between reaching the main summit and other high points on the mountain. Consequently, different records show variations in the total number of recognized ascents.

The Himalayan Database includes his successful Manaslu expeditions in 2017, 2018, 2020, and 2023.

Lhotse

Lhotse, at 8,516 meters, is the fourth-highest mountain in the world. It is part of the mountain system connected to Mount Everest.

Kami Rita successfully climbed Lhotse in 2011.

The Himalayan Database also records this ascent as a successful expedition.

K2

K2 is the world's second-highest mountain, standing at 8,611 meters. It is located in the Karakoram mountain range on the border between Pakistan and China.

According to Seven Summit Treks, Kami Rita successfully climbed K2 in 2014.

In addition to these mountains, he has climbed other peaks, including Ama Dablam.

Personal Life, Family, and Cultural Beliefs

Kami Rita Sherpa is married to Lakpa Jangmu Sherpa. The couple has two children.

Balancing his mountaineering profession with family responsibilities has been an important aspect of his personal life.

In a 2018 interview with the Associated Press, he explained that his family's financial circumstances had influenced his decision to enter mountaineering.

His wife also expressed concern about the risks associated with high-altitude climbing.

During the interview, the couple said they wanted to provide their children with higher education and encourage them to pursue other professional opportunities.

His family's experiences reflect both the income generated through mountaineering and the concerns and risks faced by the families of people working in the profession.

Buddhist Culture and Spiritual Beliefs About Mountains

Kami Rita Sherpa is connected to Buddhist religious and cultural traditions.

Within the Sherpa culture of the Khumbu region, mountains have spiritual and cultural significance.

The puja ceremony performed before the beginning of a mountaineering expedition is also associated with this tradition.

In a conversation with Guinness World Records, Kami Rita discussed the importance of religious faith and prayer during mountaineering expeditions.

For him, mountain climbing is not only a professional responsibility but also an activity connected to the cultural setting he has known since childhood.

Contribution of High-Altitude Workers and Views on Safety

Kami Rita has consistently described mountaineering not merely as a pursuit of personal records but also as his profession and source of livelihood.

In an interview published in 2018, he explained that he had not entered mountaineering with the intention of setting records. Instead, his number of Everest summits increased as he continued working as a guide.

He has also publicly expressed his views on the safety of high-altitude workers, occupational risks, and the management of the mountaineering industry.

Nepali workers play important roles in commercial Everest expeditions, including route preparation, equipment transportation, base camp operations, guiding, and emergency assistance.

However, people working in this profession must contend with mountain weather, avalanches, low-oxygen conditions, and other natural hazards.

Kami Rita's professional experience of more than three decades provides insight into the work and responsibilities of these high-altitude workers.

Concerns About Crowding on Everest in 2026

Following his 32nd Everest ascent in 2026, Kami Rita expressed concern about increasing crowding on the mountain.

According to a report published by Guinness World Records on June 2, 2026, he said that Everest had been more crowded during the 2026 climbing season than in the previous year.

He expressed the view that managing large groups of climbers simultaneously made the responsibilities of high-altitude guides more difficult.

Similarly, in an interview with Kantipur Daily on May 24, 2026, he discussed the need for improvements in Everest's cleanliness, climbing management, and rescue arrangements.

His comments relate to the management challenges that have emerged alongside the expansion of commercial mountaineering on Everest.

Major World Records and Achievements of Kami Rita Sherpa

Kami Rita Sherpa's most significant international achievement is his world record for the highest number of successful Everest ascents.

His major mountaineering achievements include:

• May 13, 1994: Successfully climbed Everest for the first time.

• May 27, 2017: Equaled the then-shared world record of 21 Everest ascents.

• May 16, 2018: Established a sole world record by reaching the summit for the 22nd time.

• May 21, 2019: Completed his 24th successful Everest ascent.

• May 7, 2021: Reached the summit of Everest for the 25th time.

• May 22, 2024: Became the first person to reach the summit of Everest 30 times.

• May 27, 2025: Completed his 31st successful ascent.

• May 17, 2026: Improved his own world record with his 32nd successful ascent.

According to the updated Guinness World Records record, Kami Rita's 32 successful ascents as of May 17, 2026, constitute the verified world record for the most Everest summits.

His records also include ascents of several other mountains above 8,000 meters. However, differences in summit recognition criteria and the counting of ascents on those mountains mean that his Everest record should be considered separately from his climbing totals on other peaks.

Kami Rita Sherpa's Contribution to Nepal's Mountaineering History

Kami Rita Sherpa's professional career is closely connected with the history of modern mountaineering in Nepal.

After Tenzing Norgay Sherpa and Sir Edmund Hillary completed the first successful ascent of Mount Everest on May 29, 1953, Nepal gained an important position in international mountaineering.

In the following decades, mountaineering-related employment and commercial expeditions gradually expanded across Nepal's Himalayan regions.

Kami Rita is a mountaineer whose career is connected to this development.

He began his professional journey in a support role at base camp and later worked as a senior high-altitude guide and climbing team leader.

Having first reached the summit of Everest in 1994, he completed 32 successful ascents by 2026.

His achievements have brought international recognition not only to his personal climbing record but also to the professional experience, responsibilities, and contributions of high-altitude mountain guides.

Conclusion

Kami Rita Sherpa is a Nepali mountaineer who holds the world record for the most successful ascents of Mount Everest. Born on January 17, 1970, in Thame village, Solukhumbu district, he first climbed Everest on May 13, 1994.

After establishing a sole world record with his 22nd ascent in 2018, he increased his total to 32 successful Everest summits on May 17, 2026.

His mountaineering career extends beyond personal records. His professional responsibilities have included guiding climbing expeditions, managing fixed ropes, leading high-altitude teams, and contributing to the work of Nepali personnel employed in the mountaineering industry.

His experience spanning more than three decades has become an important part of Nepal's professional mountaineering history.

References

1. Guinness World Records — Most Ascents of Everest (Male) — Birth date, first Everest ascent, and the world record of 32 successful ascents.

2. Guinness World Records — King and Queen of Everest Extend Their Records, June 2, 2026 — Details of the 2026 Everest ascent, the world record, and mountaineering-related interviews.

3. Guinness World Records — Kami Rita Sherpa's 31st Everest Summit, June 26, 2025 — The 31st successful Everest ascent in 2025.

4. The Himalayan Database — Kami Rita Sherpa Expedition Records — Historical records of mountain ascents and climbing expeditions.

5. Seven Summit Treks — Kami Rita Sherpa Profile — Mountaineering career, organizational affiliation, and details of ascents on other mountains.

6. The Kathmandu Post — Kami Rita Sherpa Sets New World Record with 32nd Everest Summit, May 17, 2026 — Details of the 32nd ascent confirmed by Nepal's Department of Tourism.

7. The Kathmandu Post — Kami Rita Summits Everest for Record 30th Time, May 23, 2024 — Details of the 29th and 30th Everest ascents in 2024.

8. The Kathmandu Post — Kami Rita Sherpa Climbs Everest for 26th Time, May 7, 2022 — Leadership of the rope-fixing team and the 26th Everest ascent.

9. Associated Press via Deseret News — Record Everest Climber Returns, Already Planning Next Trip, May 20, 2018 — Family background, mountaineering career, and historical events.

10. Kantipur — Politics Has Entered Mount Everest: Record-Breaking Climber Kami Rita Sherpa, May 24, 2026 — Kami Rita's interview concerning Everest management and professional challenges following his 2026 ascent.