Nirmal Purja (Nimsdai) Biography: 14 Peaks, K2 and His Legacy

Nirmal Purja (25 July 1983 – 30 July 2026), widely known as Nimsdai, was a Nepal-born high-altitude mountaineer and former member of the British Armed Forces. In 2019, he completed an expedition to climb all 14 of the world's mountains above 8,000 metres in 189 days. He was also part of the 10-member Nepali team that completed the first successful winter ascent of K2 in 2021. In 2024, Guinness World Records recorded his completion of all 14 eight-thousanders without supplementary oxygen, reaching their true summits in 2 years and 150 days.

An important distinction exists between his widely reported 2019 achievement and the subsequently revised official record. Following the introduction of stricter true-summit verification criteria, Guinness World Records recorded his time for climbing all 14 mountains with supplementary oxygen as 2 years and 168 days. The 189-day figure therefore refers to his expedition completed in 2019, while the 2-year, 168-day figure represents the revised record. These figures reflect different methods of calculating the same mountaineering achievement.

Purja died on 30 July 2026 in an avalanche on Broad Peak in Pakistan. He was 43 years old. Loughborough University in the United Kingdom confirmed his dates of birth and death.

Nirmal Purja: Quick Facts

Birth, Family and Early Life

Nirmal Purja was born in Dana village in Nepal's Myagdi District. He spent much of his childhood in Chitwan. His family had a background in military service. According to The Kathmandu Post and other biographical reports, his father and elder brothers served as Gurkha soldiers.

Purja belonged to the Magar community. This distinction is important because the ethnic identities of Nepal's mountaineers should not be treated as interchangeable. The term "Sherpa" is not a synonym for every Nepali mountaineer; it also identifies a distinct ethnic community.

According to a report published by Radio Nepal in 2026, Purja attended Small Heaven School in Chitwan from Grades 3 to 10. The report also included recollections from his former teachers. However, the available sources do not establish a complete year-by-year account of his schooling.

Education and Association with Loughborough University

While serving in the British military, Purja studied security management at Loughborough University's Business School.

According to the university's official alumni profile, he obtained a Postgraduate Diploma in Security Management.

In 2022, Loughborough University presented him with a Distinguished Alumni Award. He subsequently received an honorary degree in December 2023.

These qualifications and honours were different in nature. Purja earned his security management diploma through academic study, while the degree awarded in 2023 was an honorary recognition of his military and mountaineering achievements.

Military Career: From the British Gurkhas to the Special Boat Service

Purja joined the British Army's Gurkha units in 2003.

According to Loughborough University, he spent six years serving with the Gurkhas before joining the Special Boat Service (SBS), a British special forces unit. The university states that he was the first Gurkha soldier to join the SBS.

His overall military career lasted approximately 16 years.

During his SBS service, he developed expertise in military operations conducted in cold-weather conditions, according to the university's account. Details of all his military duties and classified assignments have not been publicly verified and are therefore not included in this biography.

In 2017, Purja led a Gurkha expedition to Mount Everest.

He was appointed a Member of the Order of the British Empire (MBE) in 2018 in recognition of achievements associated with his British military service and mountaineering.

He later left his military career to concentrate on mountaineering as his principal profession.

Beginning of His Mountaineering Career

Purja said his interest in mountaineering developed after visiting the Everest Base Camp area in 2012.

That year, he climbed Lobuche East. His ascent of Dhaulagiri in 2014 became his first successful climb of an eight-thousander. He subsequently reached the summit of Mount Everest for the first time in 2016.

What began as a mountaineering interest alongside his military career developed into regular high-altitude expeditions within a few years.

Following the 2017 Gurkha Everest expedition, Purja completed ascents of Everest, Lhotse and Makalu within a short period.

According to Guinness World Records, he established another speed record in 2019 by climbing these three mountains in 2 days and 30 minutes.

Reports and documentaries about his expeditions also describe his involvement in high-altitude rescue operations. When examining such incidents, it is important to distinguish between attempted rescues, successfully completed rescues and the contributions of other climbers.

Project Possible 14/7: The 2019 Expedition

In 2019, Purja launched Project Possible 14/7 with the objective of climbing all 14 mountains above 8,000 metres within seven months.

He began the expedition on Annapurna I on 23 April 2019 and completed it on Shishapangma on 29 October.

The expedition was initially reported as having taken 189 days, equivalent to six months and six days.

There are 14 separately recognised mountains in the world that rise above 8,000 metres. Climbing them requires coordination involving weather conditions, permits, transportation, expedition teams and personnel experienced in working at extreme altitudes.

Project Possible was not solely an individual undertaking. It involved mountain guides, supporting climbers and other expedition members.

Purja was the principal climber who completed the ascents of all 14 mountains, while other Nepali mountaineers worked alongside him during different stages of the expedition.

Phase One: Six Mountains in Nepal

During April and May 2019, Purja climbed Annapurna I, Dhaulagiri I, Kangchenjunga, Mount Everest, Lhotse and Makalu.

He climbed both Everest and Lhotse on 22 May and reached Makalu on 24 May.

During the same period, Purja and other mountaineers participated in a rescue operation to assist a Malaysian climber in difficulty on Annapurna.

A photograph taken during his 2019 Everest expedition, showing a long queue of climbers on the mountain, also attracted international media attention.

Phase Two: Five Mountains in Pakistan

In July 2019, Purja climbed Nanga Parbat, Gasherbrum I, Gasherbrum II, K2 and Broad Peak.

Contemporary news reports particularly noted the team's significant work on the climbing route during the K2 expedition.

The short period in which he climbed these five mountains was a defining feature of Project Possible's speed-focused approach.

The achievements of this phase also involved contributions from local and Nepali high-altitude teams.

Phase Three: Cho Oyu, Manaslu and Shishapangma

Following the ascents of Cho Oyu and Manaslu in September, Shishapangma remained the final mountain of the expedition.

After obtaining special permission to climb Shishapangma, which is located in Tibet, Purja and his team proceeded with the final stage.

He reached Shishapangma on 29 October 2019, completing the expedition within its planned timeframe.

Project Possible: 2019 Climbing Schedule

This table presents the ascent dates announced during the 2019 expedition. It should not be interpreted as confirmation that every ascent subsequently met the stricter true-summit verification standards.

The same dates were also reported by Deutsche Welle in its contemporary coverage of Project Possible in 2019.

Why Do the Records Show Both 189 Days and 2 Years, 168 Days?

In mountaineering, identifying the exact location of a mountain's official summit has become an important question for several eight-thousanders.

In particular, differences between the fore-summits and the actual highest points of Manaslu and Dhaulagiri led to a reassessment of climbing records in subsequent years.

Following research by mountaineering record investigator Eberhard Jurgalski and his colleagues, Guinness World Records applied the requirement to reach the true summit when verifying records.

Some older records were placed in a separate category recognising ascents accepted under earlier standards.

The points Purja reached on Dhaulagiri and Manaslu in 2019 were not subsequently accepted as the true summits under the revised criteria.

He climbed the true summits of both mountains again in 2021.

After completing the final repeat ascent on 8 October 2021, Guinness World Records recorded his time for climbing the true summits of all 14 mountains as 2 years and 168 days.

This technical revision does not erase the fact that Purja completed his widely reported 189-day expedition in 2019.

However, when discussing the current Guinness record, the originally publicised expedition duration must be distinguished from the revised officially recognised time.

In July 2023, Kristin Harila and Tenjen Lama Sherpa completed the ascents of all 14 true summits in 92 days, improving the speed record in that category.

2021: The First Successful Winter Ascent of K2

On 16 January 2021, a team of 10 Nepali mountaineers completed the first successful winter ascent of K2 in Pakistan.

The team was formed by climbers who had been participating in different expeditions.

The International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA) documented the leadership roles of Nirmal Purja and Mingma Gyalje Sherpa in the achievement.

The successful climbers were Nirmal Purja, Mingma Gyalje Sherpa, Mingma David Sherpa, Mingma Tenzi Sherpa, Gelje Sherpa, Pem Chhiri Sherpa, Dawa Temba Sherpa, Dawa Tenjing Sherpa, Kilu Pemba Sherpa and Sona Sherpa.

The climbers reached the summit together and celebrated the achievement as a team.

According to records published by the Nepal Tourism Board and the American Alpine Club, Purja reached the summit without supplementary oxygen.

This was an individual aspect of his participation, distinct from the team's collective achievement of completing the first winter ascent.

The roles of the other nine climbers should not be overlooked when discussing Purja's personal contribution.

The expedition publicly demonstrated the leadership and technical capabilities of Nepali high-altitude guides and mountaineers.

Record for Climbing All 14 Eight-Thousanders Without Supplementary Oxygen

On 4 October 2024, Purja completed an expedition to reach the true summits of all 14 eight-thousanders without supplementary oxygen after climbing Shishapangma.

Guinness World Records recorded the duration of this achievement as 2 years and 150 days.

According to Guinness, the calculation began with his ascent of Kangchenjunga on 7 May 2022.

The 2019 expedition covering all 14 mountains and the 2022–2024 expedition without supplementary oxygen were separate undertakings.

The 2021 winter ascent of K2 should also not be confused with the full duration of either expedition.

Another Guinness World Records entry credited Purja with 49 true-summit ascents as of 25 September 2025.

In July 2025, Purja publicly announced that he had completed 50 ascents above 8,000 metres following his ascent of Nanga Parbat.

The difference between these figures reflects the distinction between verified true-summit ascents and the broader counting of mountain ascents.

It would therefore be inaccurate to present all reported ascents and verified true-summit ascents as though they represented the same total.

Purja continued climbing mountains through 2026.

However, because different sources use different counting and verification methods when reporting his lifetime ascents, this biography does not assert a single undisputed final total.

Books, Documentary and Organisational Work

Beyond Possible: His Autobiographical Book

Purja's autobiographical book, Beyond Possible, was published on 12 November 2020.

According to publisher Hodder & Stoughton's records, the book covers his military background and experiences during Project Possible.

As an autobiographical source, it offers insight into his personal experiences.

However, independently maintained records should also be consulted for updated technical information about mountaineering achievements.

14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible: Netflix Documentary

In 2021, Netflix released the documentary 14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible.

The documentary follows Project Possible in 2019 and presents the work of the expedition team alongside aspects of Purja's personal life.

As a publicly released documentary, it provides an important account of the historic expedition.

However, it does not replace subsequent Guinness World Records revisions concerning true-summit verification standards.

Elite Exped and the Nimsdai Foundation

Purja held a leadership role at Elite Exped, a company involved in organising high-altitude mountaineering expeditions.

He was also the founder of the Nimsdai Foundation.

A publication issued by the foundation on 10 August 2026 confirms his role as its founder.

The organisation has published information about its work supporting mountain communities and addressing environmental concerns.

The organisations' stated plans and objectives should not automatically be treated as independent evidence that every proposed activity was completed.

The roles of the commercial expedition company and the nonprofit foundation should also be considered separately.

Public Allegations and the Press Council Dispute

On 31 May 2024, The New York Times published an investigative report concerning allegations of sexual misconduct made against Purja by two female mountaineers.

The report included accounts from the women and a response from Purja's legal representatives denying the allegations.

An allegation and a legally established finding of guilt are different matters.

As the available sources do not confirm a final judicial determination, the allegations should not be presented as proven criminal conduct.

A separate matter concerned a dispute involving reports published by The Himalayan Times about Purja and his businesses, and the Press Council Nepal.

In March 2025, reports emerged that the Press Council had taken action against the newspaper.

However, the council subsequently withdrew that action following a review.

In an article published on 4 May 2025, The Himalayan Times reported details of the council's decision dated 28 April and a letter received on 4 May.

Mentioning only the earlier action while omitting its subsequent review and withdrawal would provide an incomplete and misleading account.

Likewise, allegations raised in news reports should not be presented as established facts.

Personal Life

Some aspects of Purja's family life were discussed in public interviews, his book and biographical news reports.

His wife, Suchi Purja, is identified in public records.

His autobiography also discusses family support during his mountaineering expeditions and organisational activities.

Private information about family members who are not public figures, particularly children's personal details, addresses and private circumstances, has not been treated as essential biographical material.

2026: The Broad Peak Avalanche and His Death

On 30 July 2026, Purja died in an avalanche in the Broad Peak area of Pakistan's Karakoram mountain range.

Reuters, the BBC and other international news organisations reported that 10 mountaineers, including Purja, died in the incident.

The expedition involving Purja was associated with climbers from several countries.

Information about the search and rescue operations emerged in stages following the incident.

Confirmation that all 10 climbers, including Purja, had died became public in early August.

In its memorial article, Loughborough University explicitly recorded his lifespan as 25 July 1983 to 30 July 2026.

Purja was 43 years old when he died.

There is no need to speculate about unverified timings, the sequence of rescue operations or his private final moments when describing the accident.

Contributions to Mountaineering and Assessment of His Legacy

Nirmal Purja's contributions to mountaineering can be understood primarily through three achievements.

First, through Project Possible in 2019, he brought public attention to the coordination, time management and logistics involved in combining numerous eight-thousander ascents into a single expedition.

Second, during the historic K2 winter ascent in 2021, he and nine other Nepali climbers achieved a collective milestone in mountaineering history.

Third, in 2024, he established a Guinness World Records entry for the time taken to climb the true summits of all 14 eight-thousanders without supplementary oxygen.

Although Purja played a significant individual role in these achievements, high-altitude expeditions depend on the contributions of guides, fellow mountaineers and support personnel.

An assessment of his career should therefore recognise the names and work of those who climbed alongside him.

His record-related achievements also require careful explanation because their official status depends on measurement and verification standards.

The 189-day Project Possible expedition, the revised true-summit time of 2 years and 168 days, and the 2-year, 150-day achievement without supplementary oxygen must be presented as three distinct record-related figures.

Maintaining these distinctions is essential to an accurate account of his mountaineering career.

Purja's public life attracted praise, criticism and allegations.

An impartial account requires a clear distinction between verified ascents, institutional records, allegations reported in the media and Purja's responses.

Viewed in this way, his place in modern high-altitude mountaineering is closely associated with expedition leadership, climbing speed, Nepali team participation and continuing debates about the verification of mountaineering records.

References and Sources

1. Loughborough University. Nirmal ‘Nims’ Purja MBE. Memorial record (2026).

2. Loughborough University. Nirmal Purja. Official alumni profile.

3. Loughborough University. World record-breaking mountaineer and Loughborough alumnus awarded honorary degree. 14 December 2023.

4. Guinness World Records. Reclassifying the 8000ers. 18 September 2023.

5. Guinness World Records. Fastest ascent of all mountains over 8,000 m (male).

6. Guinness World Records. Fastest ascent of all mountains over 8,000 m without supplementary oxygen (male).

7. Guinness World Records. Most true-summit ascents of the 8,000ers.

8. Deutsche Welle. Nirmal Purja conquers all 14 eight-thousanders. 2019.

9. International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA). UIAA congratulates successful K2 winter summiters. 2021.

10. American Alpine Club. Mingma Gyalje Sherpa. K2 in Winter. 2021.

11. Nepal Tourism Board. Nepali mountaineers felicitated for their historical wintertime ascent of Mt. K2. 26 January 2021.

12. Radio Nepal. ‘Nims Dai’s’ family and school teachers in mourning. 2 August 2026.

13. The Kathmandu Post. Nirmal Purja ... dies in Broad Peak avalanche. 31 July 2026; updated 1 August.

14. Reuters. Noted climber Nirmal Purja among 10 dead in avalanche in Pakistan. 1 August 2026.

15. BBC. Who is Nirmal Purja, the famed mountaineer killed in Broad Peak avalanche?. 2 August 2026.

16. The New York Times. Anna Callaghan and Jenny Vrentas. For Female Climbers, the Dangers Go Beyond Avalanches and Storms. 31 May 2024.

17. The Himalayan Times. Press Council revokes action against THT. 4 May 2025.

18. Hodder & Stoughton. Beyond Possible. Publisher's book record (2020).

19. Netflix. 14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible. 2021.

20. Nimsdai Foundation. Nimsdai Purja — Our Founder. 10 August 2026.

21. The Guardian. Nirmal Purja obituary. 11 August 2026.